Title: Decal Question - Dry Transfer Decals
Description: How do you use dry transfer decals?
ryoga - September 30, 2009 06:06 AM (GMT)
Apparently I just found out there are 2 types of decals in the market, dry transfer and waterslide. Dry transfer decals are more realistic on aircrafts since the markings and text on an actual aircraft are "painted on" using stencils, clearly reflected on dry transfers. However, I was also informed that you need to apply more care during the transfer as they are more fragile.
My question:
1. How do one exactly apply such decals? I assume no water is required, hence the term dry transfer.
2. Anyone using this and how do they look as compared to water slide decals?
druid_99 - September 30, 2009 06:28 AM (GMT)
Well, if you heard or used Kalkitos during the 80's, that is how dry transfer is used. Basically you place the transparent plastic with the design on the desired place and using a pencil or any blunt tip, just rub on the transparent plastic on top of the design and the design will be transferred on the part.
Loo CK - September 30, 2009 06:30 AM (GMT)
ryoga,
Its Kalkitos if you can remember and old enough to know..... :D
The other equivalents are Letraset fonts...
What you do is you have to cut out the decal from its plastic like backing and usually position the decal on a piece of 3M tape and stick onto to the subject matter. Rub the decal down with a hard edge and it will transfer on to the subject. Peel off the tape...
xamel1975 - September 30, 2009 06:39 AM (GMT)
Based on HLJ's recommendation, the model surface must be slightly rough (like matt finish) if you want to use dry transfer. Smooth surface will cause the transferred design to peel off once you try to clear coat the model.
ryoga - September 30, 2009 06:55 AM (GMT)
:o Wow, thanks guys ... sounds very risky esp when the surface is not flat (like on a fuselage). Have to really thing if this is worth it
druid_99 - September 30, 2009 07:00 AM (GMT)
You can actually cut the clear plastic according to shape, put a masking tape on top of it to secure it to the parts and rub it on. The masking tape will ensure that the dry transfer will not move during the rubbing process.
rayloke - September 30, 2009 07:09 AM (GMT)
i find that dry transfer is really risky. Big ones on flat surface is still ok. Small ones or on uneven surface, it's almost impossible.
Usually i dry transfer them onto a water slide first :P
flylice80 - September 30, 2009 07:47 AM (GMT)
Dry transfer's advantage is that, it is easier to work with and the decal doesn't have the "silver-ing" effect left behind by water slide.
Disadvantage is, it doesn't work on uneven surface, and the decal is more fragile compare to waterslide... in my opinion.
Anyway, the fragileness can be solved by applying clear coat after you apply the decal. "Silvering" effect of waterslide can be minimized if you apply it on gloss surface. So... end of the day, it boils down to personal choice. :lol:
ryoga - September 30, 2009 10:13 AM (GMT)
Another concern (now that I have thought abt this) is the kind of pressure used to transfer the decal. Too hard or rough and I may just damage the kit itself :(
Think I'll stick with water transfers