Afer get some advice from bro Flylice80 and bro entau i decided to paint my BB gundam rx7 (1 of my fav) i have bought

1)sand paper 600 and 1000

2) the colour that require,thiner and top coat (no primer)

i start paint at first is doing well on red and blue because the base colour is red and blue , my nightmare start when i colour yellow (the ori colour is orange) the colour didn't adhere well
i have put thiner also cannot , so i decide to paint the white but still the same the paint didn't adhere well end up i paint too thick

my question is

1) how do i remove the paint

2) why it didn't adhere i have sand the whole plastic

3) how to paint , should i paint the 1 layer even it didn't adhere well let it cure and paint the second layer .

4) or i'm stupid and don't have the skill to do it to said i don't have the talent

pls help now my bb gundam is in a mess :cry: pls help i have :cry: :cry:

dear Gundamwing,

Painting White and yellow gloss color would sometimes end up like this. The first picture cannot see very well. The second picture, well, it's obviously painted too thick.

Sanding doesn't really help the paint to adhere. It'll sometimes help to prepare the surface, if your surface have some oil stains, finger prints, glue stains or whatever.

if you want to remove paint, you can dip a cotton bud with thinner and rub it off. For larger area you can try use fine sand paper. But it's not a fun process, and takes alot of time.

Your idea #3 is a better choice to paint the surface with several thin layers. Paint 1 layer, then wait for complete dry, then paint another. Go gently with the brush, and don't thin your paint too much. Thinner is just helping to make the paint easier for paint. If you dilute too much, you'll end up horrible.

By the way, what paint are you using? Tamiya? I don' really prefer hand painting tamiya paint for gloss white, yellow, and red.

Let me try and answer as best as I can...

1) how do i remove the paint
There is a few ways to remove the paint. First you can try and dip the parts in clorox (no need to add water) and wait for a few minutes. Some type of paint will be totally removed using it. If this didn't work, try to remove the paint by dipping it in brake oil (DOT 3) but extra caution needs to be used here as it might affect the plastic parts and making it brittle. You should not leave the parts submerged in brake oil for more than half an hour. Oh yeah, and wear rubber gloves when handling it just to be on the safe side.

2) why it didn't adhere i have sand the whole plastic
This might be because of the releasing agent that is still present on the parts. The releasing agent is used in plastic modelling to make the plastic spreues be easily separated from the mold. The release agent is not cleaned when they pack it... that is why in the assembly instruction you are advised to wash the plastic parts in water and detergent.

3) how to paint , should i paint the 1 layer even it didn't adhere well let it cure and paint the second layer .
Nope. This actually depends on the medium you are using to paint the parts. From your statement, I assume that you are using brush to paint it. I'm not good in brush painting so, I'll leave it to the pros...

4) or i'm stupid and don't have the skill to do it to said i don't have the talent
It is better to ask questions because no one in this world is born with the skill to build models.

You need to acquire skills to build models and in order to get that, you have to ask questions and do trial and error. You can ask all the seasoned modeller in here how much time and money they have spend in order to reach the current stage. I myself had destroyed quite a number of models just to get the painting right not to mention the time spent for trial and errors... :lol:

Hope you did not give up on model building just because a few hiccups... Even seasoned modellers sometimes make mistakes and with every mistake, there will be knowledge gained somewhere... :)

sorry bro for the poor picture

bro fly i don'tlah i go in the shop i ask for yellow,blue,white all is the sale persone give to me 1 don't know is gloss or what , somemore i open the colour some already dry out 1 :cry: some half of the bottol , do u guy have this problem .

the brand is mr.color

ok will try to used clorox and do it ,

i really need you all to help , i don't want to spoil my rx -7 gundam :cry: further is a birthday present from my wife.

thought i can show her the result yesterday but fail after inhale 7 hours of those ourdon , i feel dizzy and want to vomit .

if i cannot do it can someone help me to paint ..PLS

bro druid

i have wash the plastic part with water only before i paint
bro entau said try on plastic spoon b4fore paint i do that too when mix the colour but still fail . or it a must to user mr.surface (primer)

how much you bought the BB gundam?

since you are using mr color, i think only mr color's thinner or brake fluid will remove the paint cleanly, and this two things will cost u at last rm20, i remember BB gundam is around rm20-rm30, so buy a new BB gundam or buy stuff to remove it, the choice is yours. (i will buy a new BB :P )

DID YOU THIN YOUR PAINT? thinning should be around 1:3 or 1:2 > paint:thinner

that around RM45 :cry:

what bro fly teach is open the clour use a stick to stir the colour and then pour out and paint , but i do add a bit of thiner and mixt before i paint i paint it on the plastic spoon .

so how now bro pls advice need to buy those stuff this sat ..

cant help you much as i rarely hand paint my kit (its very hard to look nice) :P

but now need to get the colour that i paint out first

so used the clorox or the brake fluid or can i used the nail polish or the alcoho that used to clean the tape head , because i think i don't want to spend some more money

try not paint parts that are already in the intended color, example if the head are already in white, dun paint white on white, just paint the eyes, and other small detail unpainted parts, after that just topcoat with flat clear

ENtau, 1:2 ~ 1:3 paint:thinner mixture is too diluted for hand painting. 1:1 is maximum I'll go for hand painting. 1:2 ~ 1:3 work well with airbrush. I always paint even if the plastic is already at intended color. This is to give the whole model a sense of same texture

Erm, normally when you purchase a paint, assuming Mr.color, they won't come bottle full (so far I only see Humbrol comes with bottle full). Mr.color will come in about 80% full bottle. And you said that the paint is dried? Next time, please check the paints before purchasing them. Some shops says "once open, considered sold", you better ask the shopkeeper and say that you want to open the paint bottle to check whether they are "fresh".

I have used dried or "expired" paints. They are horrible when painting. For us, we roughly get used to the paint smells already. I check paint's "freshness" by smelling it. For Mr.color paint, if it has abit of "urine" smell or if it smells sour, then it's no good. Expired paints won't adhere to... basically anything. The paint actually coagulates into clumps.

If you don't want to use thinners to remove paint, please try sand paper. I really don't know about brake fluids, I don't use them. Nail polish, you can test and see.

Another thing about yellow or white paints, sometimes I don't mix the paint in the bottle and paint them. When you open the bottle, you can see a layer of clear paint "mixer" on top of a thick layer of paint. The thick layer settles at the bottom. Some times for light colors, I don't mix and I use brush to extact only the thick paint, transfer it to a tray "sometimes I use the bottle's cap if the quantity is small", then mix with thinner and paint.

Again said, better try and experiment yourself. You said you tried painting on plastic spoon before painting the model. Does the plastic spoon looks good when you paint yellow?

We suggested some methods. Please test all these methods on the plastic spoon before you proceed with your model. I've been into modeling for quite some years. I normally don't experiment nowadays, but things can still go wrong. Think how to solve the problem. That's one of the fun part in modeling.

erm..probably 1:1 :P as i rarely hand paint my kit ^_^

if we use airbrush, yes, i would recommend paint everthing, but since he's not using airbrush, painting just the required part would be easier (actually a lot easier :P ) coz from my experience, hand paint small parts are actually easier than hand paint large area ^_^

hmm..... yeah, got the point.

Never tried hand painting gundam. I once hand painted some tanks, but heavy weathering would make the uneven painted surface unnoticable.

bro i try on the spoon look ok so i paint but cannot adhere don't why

the plastic spoon i not even wash and is in white colour .

bro entau yes what u said is correct but it seem that if i paint others part and the head ,hand and leg is not paint seem to be not nice and also i want to try my skill

at first i was very happy beacuse i paint the bottom of the leg and the body with blue it adhere well so i confidentlah but once paint the head :cry:
thing go wrong
and that time i panic already and don't what to do

also i don't want to upset my wife , with so much money spend nothing at the end

so pls do help me , or anyone can help me to paint with their airbrush since i already purchase the paint also i can have a chance to learn

It's abit weird if you tried it on spoon but doesn't work on ur gundam. I never worked with Bandai kit, I don't know what's their plastic quality like. But usually, if the paint doesn't have problem, the paint works well.

I can offer to use my airbrush, but I do not have a workspace at home. I currently build my model on a foldable portable wood table and all my tools and paints are kept in several small plastic cabinet. So... it'll be inconvenient for you to come my place.

thanks bro fly , i don't mind if you come to my place , but i still want to try my handpaint skill i know will be ugly but at least i try , if wrost come to worst i have to used yr airbrush , of course you paint for melah :D

now i need to think a way to remove the colour first then i retry to paint .
now if i manage to remove the paint what should i do next , straight paint or buy surface spray and paint and if i don't wnat to buy surface what should i do for the colour to adhere . this is my last hope

try to thin the paint more...like 1:8 to 1:10 paint/thinner.. paint layer by layer..leave each layer to dry then continue the next layer.... yellow and white are hard to handpaint... be patience and extar patience... thinned paint wont leave brush mark and easy to forgive ... lucky enough Mr Color dry pretty fast so i assume after 10 mins u can proceed to the next layer... build layer by layer slowly until u get a solid color.... if u are lucky after 8-10 layer it's done!
Before touching the model, touch the tip of the brush onto a tissue paper...let the excess color to be 'sucked' by the tissue paper and leave the brush the required amount of paint...

recipe to success :
1. heavily dilluted paint
2. brush in one direction...do not repeat the same area while paint still wet
3. Apply thin layer each and wait till dry
4. patience

hope this helps.... u may try on scrap plastic first.... spoon and maybe sprue will be the crash test dummies.....

thanks bro so this is the way

what i do is i paint and paint the same area without the area dry but i manage to get the colour adhere well but very thick and don't whay got hole and got small bubble also sipder wed 1 why and where goes wrong

also 1: 8 is mean 1 teh spoon of paint and 8 tea spoon of thiner or 1 drop of paint and 8 drop of thiner . me no good at this 1

but bro when i paint the colour seen to run away (hope u know what i mean)
that why i repaint that area until the colour stick to it

spider web is common when u used mr color...u should thin it more... say 1:10 or more..

yeap..that's the ration 1 tea spoon or whatever unit u got.... tea spoon divide by tea spoon is then dimensionless...unitless.... dont try i teh spoon to 1 cup plak...hehe
i hope u can understand the basic of it...

u must wait for the layer to dry....normally u wont see a good solid layer for the first few layer...be patience and continue more.... i think u should dilute it more.... 1:8 is not enough...maybe 1:12 or 1:20.... normally when i paint with brush i used 1:10 to 1:15... but i used valejo color which dry slower....

thanks everyone for your advice and offer , i will try my level best to get this mission done , will post the picture when finish if thing go well lah

by the what may i ask how nomally you guy do the measure 1:10 how u guy

know

haha...good question.... but no need to be rocket scientist precision... normally i would go by drop...
i drop of paint to 10 drop of thinner...
some used those graduated cups (those cute lil cup for our kids cough syrup) will also do...
some dip brush...1 dip paint plus 10 dip of thinner
over the time, u wont need this anymore...u eyes will tell if it's enough

it's subjective unless u're making a bomb, so precision is not the key here

oic thanks luckly i still keep those cough syrup cup

will do the mesasure thanks everyone

hope this sat i will have a good result untill then see u guy when i am done

I am not sure what kind of paint you are using. But this method will generally work when painting gloss white/yellow/red (these are the hardest colour to paint)

1. Clean the parts before painting with soap and water.
1A. To remove paint - use tissue soaked with thinner to rub off paint. Thinner =Isopropyl alcohol (for Acrylic) or Gunze Thinner (for both acrylic/lacquer paint)
2. Spray a layer of grey (any grey - light or medium gray) as a base coat. I prefer gunze lacquer for this purpose
3. Then spray yellow/white/red whichever is required. You can use acrylic/lacquer based paint at this stage as long as the grey colour is completely dried.

as you can see, me, silantra and entau give totally different suggestions. There's no standard procedures or whatsoever in modeling. Everybody's idea comes from experiences, and it varies for a modeller to another.

So... try it out yourself, and share your outcome.

Poopeh, we are talking about hand painting, which make painting yellow and white gloss color more difficult.

By your point is true. Better get a "primer" ( can use light grey color paints as primer), then paint on primer. However, if you go with heavy dilution like Silantra's method, you better avoid using the same paint type (enamal or acrylic) so that the thinner doesn't dissolve the primer paint.

ok will try and let you guy know again thanks really apperciated all advice :D

hope thing go well .

hi bro poopeh

u meant i paint any gray colour , can i use black paint not primer because i don't want to spend more money .

Black paint primer? Never tried that. Generally not a good idea. Its hard to cover the "blackness". Grey because its quite neutral and easy to cover with almost any colour

Since you are hand painting, i recommend you use enamel paint. Its more "hand paint" friendly. This is what i do especially if the parts are small and i need to paint yellow. Paint the background with lacquer paint. Then use yellow enamel paint.

Enamel uses Mineral Spirit/Turpentine as solvent, so it won't melt Lacquer paint. Enamel paint takes a few hours to dry. So if you make a mistake just wipe off the yellow with tissue wet with Mineral spirit/turpentine. Your base colour (lacquer) should not come off (not much anyway if you do it lightly)

broder wing,

Don't panic yet bro. It still can be fixed. I have had this even happend to me when i was spraying my blue pickup hilux. At first i decided to paint orange colour so i base coat white 2 layers and orange 3 layers. After finishing, i realized the colour looked like " %!"#$%&'(" so what i did was i used sand paper grid 180 that was super rough, i sanded it slowly under running water and lets just say that i sanded off all the paint until the base could be seen back again with the other colours still visible but no fear, i sprayed back 3 layers of white this time and shoot metallic blue on top and whala you have the finished product that didn't looks orange as it was meant to be.

Off course dont be unpatience brother. For the white, spray very thin layers and dont spray all untill everything becomes white. Be patience, spray one layer let it dry, still can see the layer below? no fear spray another layer let it dry, still can see a bit below? again shoot the white until all the surface looks white and if you have to add in 4 layers then just go with your guts. After that shoot the colours you want and you'll get the perfect colour. The most difficult colour to play with are bright colours like yellow, blue, etc

If you are using a brush to paint, after finishing all the layer that has the spider web and looks like a blob etc, use a fine sandpaper like grid 1200 or grid 1500? sand it under running water slowly and super gently bit by bit until it looks smooth, then just shoot a clear spray on top and you're done ^_^

thanks bro poopeh and bro sky


i try with my current bought colour to finish this gundam and i really don't think i will spend more money on this.

but appreciated of your help , if i know paint layer by layer this mess will not be happen .


i try to used colox first if cznnot remove the colour i will used the rough sand paper
like what bro sky have suggest

thanks bro will show the result

Ah-so !!! now I also am learning something new here too .... will try my hand at paint stripping also ... got to get the paint of these plastics too ... see the pic of the car pieces that are on the middle of the paragraph:

http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...?showtopic=5966

Enzo look good in red mar. I thought it was a good buy. Paint strip is risky IMO. I won't try it unless i really have to.

I started off this hobby with hand painting as well and I can tell you now that it is not an easy task to hand paint. Nevertheless I have hand painted a few of my kits.

You can see how I do hand painting here.

My other hand painted kits are:
Gundam RX-78 GP01
RX-121-1 Gundam TR1 Hazel Custom

Hope this help.

bro arc

r u serious hand paint the 1/100 very nice bro

thanks for the tip on yr blog that a great help

You are not alone man, I'm also a beginner modeler that has to hand paint. So let me share some of my limited experience with you.

To avoid air bubbles in the paint, i find that you should use boiled water instead of normal tap water because boiled water has no air in it.

Also since you are using acrylic paint, you can save paint by using a wet pallet. I found a tutorial here:
how to make a wet pallet

Hope you find this helpful.

Archangel,

I must say that is a really good handpainting job you've done there.

The base painting is really great. Can see you spend alot of effort on it. Some comments for your upcoming project:

1) You have to try to use putty to fill up and sand the joining seam lines. It looks very obvious, expecially on the arms.

2) You could probably try to do a dark wash for the entire model, to bring the details up. Looking from far, the 3D of the model is not obvious.

Anyways, suprised to see how the hand painting job can be done so well.

A good Archangle art for you.

thanks bro u_logi but the mr.colour can mix with water 1 meh

see i thin the paint with thiner and when thiner mix with water will have those oily oily thing come out , so how the wet pallets help

can i mix the colour with water pls advice

Gunze comes with 2 types of paint. Acrylic (water based) and Lacquer (Lacquer thinner based). Acrylic can mix with water. Lacquer cannot.

Wet Pallet... I heard that before somewhere. The wet pellet is for you to store your paint mixture for future use... Some times you don't track how much portion of 2 or more paint you used to create your mixture. When you needed it, you forgotten how you created it. this method helps you to preserve your paint so that in future you want the same paint color, you can use back.

This method is good if you are using water to thin your paint. If you are using thinners, may not be applicable. Also, I don't use water to thin or mix acrylic model paints. Some content (mostly because of ionized metal) in the water actually makes your paint color differ. Most of the time, it'll lighten the color of the paint (blue becomes light blue). It also changes the characteristic of the paint (eg, gloss color become semi-gloss or flat). Unless you use pure water, such as distilled water, RO water, you can minimize this side effect. DI (de-ionized) water will work best.

Side Topic:
TRY NOT TO DRINK distilled water, RO water or DI water directly. If you find that your supplier of your home RO machine says it's the "best" or "good" quality water the RO produces, then better dun buy. I work as a Engineering Manager in a company where we are specialized in Design, Build and Commission Wastewater Treatment Plant, Water Recycling and Desalination system. We specialize in MF, UF, RO systems as well. Please take my word. You can drink those water, but better if you mix with something else.... like using it to make Teh Tarik.. Anyway, if can better don't choose Distilled or RO water. :)

Why?
The reason is that these water are actually "highly active". Pure water has nothing in them and hence more readily to absorb anything that it can. When you drink them, they will actually extract minerals, nutrients, etc from your body when you drink it, making your body loosing important minerals at specific areas from mouth to intestine, especially your tooth. Therefore it is not advisable to drink directly.

When we design pipes for these product water, we normally use plastic pipes. Any metal pipes if use, you'll find that these "pure water" corrode the metal pipes pretty quickly compared to normal water.

Water is the most effective and universal solvent. In layman term, put it this way:

Put a glass of water. Then start adding a teaspoon of salt to it. Stir it up, you can see the salt dissolves quickly. Add a few more tablespoon. You can see the salt actually dissolves slowly. This is because the the water is saturated with salt. So... if you drink in pure water, it's more readily to absorb anything it can dissolve. It'll leach out minerals from your body pretty quickly because it contains nothing.

Drinking clean water is essential. But it is not necessary to drink pure waters. MF and UF water filters can remove anything above 0.1 micron which is enough. To remove most bacteria and viruses. Any toxic metals if happen to exist in your water after UF, the quantity will normally be soooo small that is almost have no effect. But please... change your filters frequently.

In-depth information:
RO and Nanofiltration actually goes into range not measured by microns but measures by Daltons which is already at atomic level. RO and Nanofiltration actually removes IONs, which also contributes to the hardness of the water. This water, is often known as Pure Water or Ultra Pure Water to many. There are several units to measure the corrosiveness, saturation of water. One of them is the LSI (Langelier Saturation Index). Although LSI cannot provide full information of corrosiveness, but if LSI is negative, it has the tendency to leech Ions (minerals in your body most in the form of Ions). RO water, DI water and Distilled water will have negative LSI.

Extract informations:
Magnesium, calcium, fluoride, and other nutrients in water can help to protect against nutritional deficiency. The pure water may also increase the risk from toxic metals because it more readily absorbs them, and because the presence of calcium and magnesium in water can prevent absorption of lead and cadmium. Recommendations for magnesium have been put at a minimum of 10 mg/L with 20–30 mg/L optimum; for calcium a 20 mg/L minimum and a 40–80 mg/L optimum, and a total water hardness (adding magnesium and calcium) of 2–4 mmol/L. At water hardness above 5 mmol/L, higher incidence of gallstones, kidney stones, urinary stones, arthrosis, and arthropathies have been observed. For fluoride the concentration recommended for dental health is 0.5–1.0 mg/L, with a maximum guideline value of 1.5 mg/L to avoid dental fluorosis.

Thanks for reading.

bro how do i know the paint is Acrylic or Lacquer all i know is when i open the bottle of the paint is always half not full and the paint is at bottom and the thiner is on top .

and they sell the pain at RM 10 full bottol i don't mind

when i buy the colour the guy just give me the colour i want pls help

why i so blur :cry:

laquer is often known as oil-based. If you paint is this kind of paint, you'll see the word "enamel" on the label. If not, it's most likely acrylic. Test and u'll see. Enamel and water don't mix.

so bro u mean i can mix water with the paintlah

like this why we need to used thiner why not used water only to mix with the colour and then paint .

pls help