Title: Peugeot 206 Wrc Monte Carlo 05
Description: My first WRC car.
KIRIN - July 20, 2009 08:45 PM (GMT)
This will be my first WRC car, is Tamiya kit, think will be more easy to build. :D
Will not gonna build as OOB but will add PE from Acu stion.
The box art.

Acu Stion PE

Thanks Klay and Entau to remind me that I left some part, after I apply 1200 primer. So this is how it looks like after attach the small part and putty applied. :lol:





Dry fit the chasis, tire and others small part.


To be Continued... :P
KIRIN - July 20, 2009 08:53 PM (GMT)
After applied gunze white base only realized that the surface and the bonnet is uneven... OMG...
Gonna re-spray another layer of primer and white base. Masking work is done to protect others area so this will not over spray.



Hand itchy and dry fit the body to chasis and enjoying. :P


Then only I realize something, there is a big gap/hole between the chasis and body....


Unacceptable!!!!

Think will add pla-plate to fill it up, sifu-sifu out there, any idea? :D
Thanks in advance.
sky_tokyodrifter - July 21, 2009 01:36 AM (GMT)
hoho abg kirin started peugeot already hehe. I am not a sifu but I think I got some ideas ^_^
1. The original kit has a hole in the center hood? for what actually? maybe they used the same mold for the older normal street spec
2. For your information, all real life cars has a gap at the fender section or called wheel arch. That's why they need to install a fender guard or a wheel arch cover which is basically a matt black or flat black colour plastic. My car also has a gap which I will also fill in using pla-plate and colour using flat black.
See the pictures below ^_^

klay - July 21, 2009 02:34 AM (GMT)
The gaps also looks a bit pelik :blink:
You sure got nothing "block" between the car body and the chassis joint?
Entau - July 21, 2009 03:10 AM (GMT)
hoho..finally start d :P
the wheel arch, i did the same for my impreza, but make sure after you add the pla-plate, the body can still fit the chassis wor, xtra caution is needed so that you dun ter-scratch the paint during final assembly
Klay: tamiya do the gap so huge so that final assembly will be much easier
sky_tokyodrifter - July 21, 2009 03:14 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE |
| Klay: tamiya do the gap so huge so that final assembly will be much easier |
agree, but sometimes Tamiya lazy to mod the mold so just use any old mold and hantam, packing and sell off to people like us <_< . Luckily we all can scratch build. ;)
Entau - July 21, 2009 03:30 AM (GMT)
sky, i don think Tamiya are lazy, i think they want to CUT COST :lol:
KIRIN - July 21, 2009 06:02 AM (GMT)
Thanks Abg SKy, Klay and Entau.
I got the actual Peugeot photo this morning, Thanks Mr.S There is actually 'a gap' between the fender. Like what Entau said, I have to very careful while adding pla plate on that part, scae later car body cannot fit. :D
PS: Sky, you got a lot of nice photo yeah. Next time I will looking for you when I wanna build my subaru. :lol:
sky_tokyodrifter - July 21, 2009 06:51 AM (GMT)
Abg Kirin,
......or you can add the gap cover lastly like what I plan to hehe :P . Because it is a very easy step so to avoid scratches, I plan to fit it in last. After all its just sumbat + add glue + cut according to size.
For your info the master of pictures is "super guru entau" wahahaha, like the sound of that hehe :lol: Abg entau has tons and tons of reference pictures you name it he gets it. Got tons of reference pics for the CLK GTR. I only have subaru's which is for my build. The picture I pasted is for the car jack that I will be making and also for my own understanding how to make the wheel arch covers ^_^ .
go go goooooo....... :lol:
Entau - July 21, 2009 06:56 AM (GMT)
i only got few sky... :P most of wrc interior i hardly can find it in the net,
btw sky, you got reference for peugeot 206 interior pic? plan for s super detail kit in the future, if you got can send to my email ar? cheelee@viruscomm.com :D
sky_tokyodrifter - July 21, 2009 07:08 AM (GMT)
abg entau, I'll try to find for you and abg kirin hehe. Have to consult master druid also. He's a sifu when it comes to refferences.
| QUOTE |
| cheelee@viruscomm.com |
underground e-mail account for hiding black money, women details etc wahahahaha (joke)
Entau - July 21, 2009 07:14 AM (GMT)
KIRIN - July 21, 2009 07:32 AM (GMT)
Thanks in advance Abang Sky! My email, chris_sia@yahoo.com
I found some picture to shre with u guys too. Wait till the photobucket back to function first. :ph43r:
i try picseach.com and found a lot of car photos, try it, really useful
Entau - July 21, 2009 07:52 AM (GMT)
picseach.com or picsearch.com?
KIRIN - July 21, 2009 08:23 AM (GMT)
Sorry, typo, should be
picsearch.com
:D
sky_tokyodrifter - July 21, 2009 08:48 AM (GMT)
no wonder my computer keeps on saying error and please try again. I thought it was my server with problems.
Oh well, more laughs for all 3 of us wahahahahaha :lol: :lol: thanks again bro
Entau - July 21, 2009 08:50 AM (GMT)
ni mest copy and paste :lol:
druid_99 - July 29, 2009 09:51 AM (GMT)
Ask and you shall recieve.... use it with caution and responsibly... :lol:
Click here if you are in need of detail pictures of the Pug... :)
Entau - July 29, 2009 10:04 AM (GMT)
aiikss..this link i got also :P , but i do face a few problem, from 2000 - 2003, the pug actually had few minor differences in both interior and exterior, the problem with the interior reference is that you couldn't tell whether it's 2000, 2001, 2002 or 2003 version :lol:
druid_99 - July 29, 2009 10:19 AM (GMT)
Well, for me it is simple... I just use the Tamiya ones as guidance and just use the reference picture to add detail to the Tamiya model kit.
Since getting an exact reference needed for the specific car from the net is not that easy (unless you buy a book that explains in detail about the exact car in detail) I will use whatever detail pictures that I get from the net and detail the car from there.
sky_tokyodrifter - July 29, 2009 10:25 AM (GMT)
agree with broder druid,
my imprezza realy giving me the "peningness" imagine in 1 single stage which is the last stage rally of great britain, they have many stages and in every stages all the interior different. Foot rest different, spotlight different, even the seat different (sometimes recaro, sometimes prodrive) mati hehehe . So i just close my eyes and point at 1 particular car and do exactly the same with that car but of course feel guilty because tak sama but i just accept it ^_^ .
Entau - July 29, 2009 10:46 AM (GMT)
true also, it's just pening which ref pic to choose as guide :P
in the end, as long as those detailing looks nice, habis cerita :lol:
KIRIN - July 29, 2009 11:59 AM (GMT)
As you can see, I sprayed the hood with 1200 again after the putty work.

This part in the box art which is suppose a 'hole'

But the kit...
Front


Rear


What I plan to do is, drill a 0.7mm hole and use after market Allen Head.




To be continued. :lol:
KIRIN - July 29, 2009 12:14 PM (GMT)
OK, now working on the gap between fenders and chassis.
Measurement was done by using a calipper and transfer to a pla-plate. In this case, I choose to use Evergreen plastic 0.25mm. The main reason I choose this is because I will need to build up the curve of the fender, layer by layer till as thick as the original part, 0.25mm is more easy to bend and Evergreen plastic is more easy to react with Tamiya Cement. :P


Use some small paper clip to make the plastic 'stay' till the cement dry.

And now, adding 0.25mm plaplate on the bottom on the fender, layer by layer...

Trimming and sanding was done.

Its look better now!!!!


To be continued!
KIRIN - July 30, 2009 04:08 AM (GMT)
The work continue last night. :D
Everything looks OK after a layer of surfacer 1200 follow by Gunze White base.




Will do some sanding work with 1500 sand paper before proceed to spray the base color. :D
Some putty work on the driver seat and spoiler.


OK now gonna work on the first PE for this kit,
Use a clip on top of the PE to make it easy to handle.

This is the knife that I mentioned so many times in others thread, the curve blade make you more easy to cut.

Radiator, before

After

Thats all, C&C are welcome. :lol:
druid_99 - July 30, 2009 05:04 AM (GMT)
Kirin, one advise...
You might need to fill in the rear holes if you are going to use the PE parts for the rear and front bonnet clip...
Entau - July 30, 2009 05:14 AM (GMT)
ya, especially the rear, the hole is HUGE :lol: should have told you earlier :P
sky_tokyodrifter - July 30, 2009 06:04 AM (GMT)
abg kirin, your work is super laju, like the flash. Cannot wait to put on the decals is it? kan? kan? :lol: :lol: :lol:
KIRIN - July 30, 2009 06:41 AM (GMT)
Thanks Druid & Entau,
The bonnet clip hold infront is make by myself by drilling a 0.5mm hole and yeah, how can I miss out the HUGE hole behind!!! Alamak!
Abg Sky, hahaha you really can read my mind! Cant wait to put on the decals!!! :lol:
KIRIN - July 30, 2009 11:38 AM (GMT)
A question to all sifu sifu out there,
Any others special threatment to those rubber tyres? Beside, I just sand away those molding line line what I did on my truck or aircraft models?
Thanks in advance.
Entau - July 30, 2009 12:03 PM (GMT)
i did the same as you, haven't tried the template for AB yet :P
if u plan to use the tyre decal can slighty brush some flat clear on top of the decal, but again, i haven't try yet ^_^ :P
sky_tokyodrifter - July 30, 2009 01:14 PM (GMT)
abg kirin, sanding away the mold lines on the tyres are really difficult. So many bunga on the tyres, but i'm sure you'll manage ;) . I actually oversanded my tyres :ph43r: lucky for me i bought spares hehe :lol:
KIRIN - August 5, 2009 03:18 PM (GMT)
No sweat man, will try these out and let you guys posted bout my work when I came back to Malaysia. :D
Anyway, Abg Sky, Do you use Finisher Clear Coat before? is is nice to use? :o