Hey guys..currently building this hot italian babe..The body is going to be painted in TS-47 chrome yellow, and i need to do some masking job to mask around the body and paint the top using Tamiya TS-14 black, as same as the real Gallardo SE. But I never tried masking job before so when I first masked it and spray using the remaining TS-14 in my cupboard, the paint leaked and ruined the color. so I stripped off the paint using Shell Brake Fluid ( DOT3 or 5? I've forgotten).

Here's the picture of the car before painting and has just been stripped off the paint.



it was so messy and ugly that time..and the brake fluid made it brittle so i cracked the pillar of the Gallardo..Oh my..heart attack..
But then I repaired it using superglue.

Here are the pictures of the car sprayed with Tamiya TS-47 Chrome Yellow. It's only the first coat. Sanding and fixing minor failure is needed..will paint few more coats after sanding.





close up of the hood.



the body and the chassis..




try fitting with the chassis..(since when the Gallardo becomes a 4X4? <_< )



Well..All I can say is Fujimi keeps learning and improving. I've no fitting problems in this car. It's worth on what you pay for.
The chassis is done and the interior just left the steering wheels and door panels waiting to be installed..

p/s : run out of TS-14..keep searching for spray can (black)..i wonder if i can use mr.hobby's black colour to replace the TS-14 as I've painted the body with tamiya paint.scared there will be crashes between two paints..

dear all sifus..teach me how to mask... :)

it might not be that perfect..i'm still learning..
thanks for watching and leaving comments!

Hi UnknownUser... need to confirm from you..have u got any trouble fitting the engine bay into the body? I had trouble while building my Tangerine Lambo Gallardo where the right side (when facing from rear) is somehow can't fit into the fittings when inserting the screws. I have to widen the 'hole' on the right side of engine bay so that the body have a perfect fit. I look at my Gallardo SE (still in the box) is the same... :wacko:

This is what i will do for the masking on Gallardo SE ... 1st spray the whole car with its prefer color, for ur case TS47 cos black will always cover lighter colors. After completely dry, mask the body with masking tape (TMY is the best) and left the roof, a portion of the rear bonnet (according to the decending line) and the rear intakes.

As for different brand of colors overlapping... not very sure on Mr.Hobby/Gunze colors but i've try the Super Clear UV Cut Gloss over TMY Pearl White on my Z33 and turns out ok... :rolleyes:

BTW...i'm a can spray modelers also all this while...learning AB now.. :P

unknown, if u r really into this hobby, i advised that u save some money for AB & compresser, coz for the long run, it saves more, since i never use can spray, cant teach u much, but always always shake well and heat it up with warm water(not boil :P ) around 5min , then only spray, results better

for the masking, make sure u gores the edge of the masking tape so that it stick 100% to the body, spray it using low pressure, since u got no AB, spray it abit further away

Well..Never try to screw the engine bay yet. But I had the same problem as yours when i was building my Fujimi F430 coupe. So we need to mod it a little bit in order to make it fits well. One question..where did you get most of your car from? just curious and wanna add one more way to get car kits..i'm doing online purchase..

I'm using TMY masking tape, the biggest problem I have is the part near the engine bay, i have to spray it black, but don't know how to mask that part..do i have to mask the whole car? and how many days do i have to wait until it dries out completely before i can do the masking job? as i learn from other modellers, we have to spray a coat of the preferred colour after masking to seal it before spraying black..is that true?

i'm a spray can user since i invest in this hobby..till now..but the result of my paint work is ugly.. :(

the selected part has to be painted in black...

i get my kits online & oversea trip ^_^ , if u r looking specific model, online is the only solution IMO

for safe, wait at least 2 days, actually depend how thick ur paint is, thinner it is, shorter u wait, but still at least...1 day

yes, mask evrything not black, not neccessary to use tamiya tape for all, only mask the edge with tamiya tape, then the rest u can cover with paper/plastic/cheap masking tape, but make sure its totally conceal all the areas, black bleeding is very very hard to touch up

Same...online purchase cos u can hardly find other kits and brands in M'sia.

Mask the whole car?... depends on ur spraying skills actually..u can mask only the portion u need to spray and the rest cover with hard cover envelopes with cellotape (cheapest method). Do take note that mist of the sprays will somehow adhere to your kit during spraying. I normally wait for 3 days after spraying the body color then i compound it, then wash with soap on running water, then wipe it with dry cloth, put till dry for another day then only i mask.

The only way is to mask it patiently...its a decending straight line rite? :)

Oh ya...one thing i forgot....Entau has mention... have ur hobby spray can soaked in warm water NOT boiled water for 5 to 10 minutes before spraying.

Long term... AB is preferable cos paints are not as costly as Hobby can sprays.

true, though i never tried it, not nessesary to be same color before u spray black, it can be clear paint before the black, the reason is to seal any gap that is not mask 100%, so when the paint do bleed over, it is the clear/same paint that bleed over, not the black.

dude..try fitting just now. i have no problem with the holes..everything fits perfectly! perfecto!! i don't know why you have that problem, i guess it might be manufacturer's failure. 'coz my ferrari f430 has the same problem too. the f430 needs to screw on the front wheel chassis..

and yes..i gotta mask the remaining part using papers and adhersive tapes..save cost! haha..

most of my kits come from ebay, mainly hongkong seller, 'coz they are sellin' cheap but the box might damage a little bit. if you don't mind, it's okay. for me, i don't really mind the box..

nope..i didn't soak it..but when i bought my paint from hobby shop that day..the shopkeeper told me about this..warm water right? not hot hor?

brother entau...how much is the cheapest and user friendly AB + compressor? i gotta start saving now. and what kind of paint should we use in AB usually? actually being a spray can user, i've already get used to the method of using spray can, i think it's time to know more about AB now..

Well lucky you UnknownUser on the fitting...

Yes warm water and not boiling water cos the can sprays contains pressure.

Oh ya... looking at ur Gallado body, maybe u might consider to spray a primer over it 1st as to have even coverage of Chrome Yellow.

haha..yea...i guess i'm just lucky..

no primer on my hand..anchor brand primer melts my plastic.. <_< and i wonder if i can use anchor brand primer over the tamiya paint or not..

brother, which grid of the sandpaper should i use in fixing the failures?

bro.. since u don't plan to prime ur kit to save $$, it's best to lightly sand (using 1500# and/or above), that will kinda cause ur plastic surface to turn "matte".
this will provide more "gripping" for ur paint to stick.

and when u do ur masking, make sure all the edge is sticking tightly without any raised holes, gaps, wrinkle.
coz even the smallest gap u think the paint won't go into, it will eventually.

if u still having paint bleeding problem despite ur best effort of keeping ur masking tape edge press down, look at ur masking tape, is it clean and free fr fiber/dust particles etc?

if yes, then lay down that stretch on a piece of glass and trim away those edge.
use the newly cut edge. it gives u a very sharp mask.


for airbrush and compressor, it's been discussed here:
http://z12.invisionfree.com/ScaleModelsMal...?showtopic=5268

airbrush around rm85-rm500, got cheap got exp, compressor i think around rm500-rm800 gua, sencond hand one cheaper, if u can find

paint u have tons of choice, but i mainly use mr color, its cheap, around rm7 per bottle, last time price, now should increase abit d :D

UnknownUser.... as mention by klay on the sand paper or Finishing Abrasives...grid 1500 and 2000 from TMY will do.

There're other Finishing Abrasives with grid from 2400 to 12000 from MicroMesh but is kindda expensive.

heard that we can actually use the sandpaper from local hardware shop too..what are the grids? notice that the body has some dust sticks under the paint..which grid should i use to remove it?

as for the airbrush, since i'm learning, i would plan to get the cheaper airbrush..but can we just use the airbrush without compressor? heck..the paint so cheap as compared to spray cans! tak boleh tahan..would like to get a cheap airbrush to start learning..

no air how do u use the airbrush :lol:

save some money 1st, i do agree that a very nice body finish can be obtain by only using spray can, infact i think its easier compare to airbrush where u need to find the right distance, air pressure, paint & thinner ratio and such

but for interior & other parts painting, an AB is ur best tool

can, i'm using hardware sandpaper, if u wana remove anything dust from paint dont use lower than 1500, its very easy to oversand, after that polish it back

i use 500 for removing sprue mark or mold line, then refine with 1000, after prime refine with 1500

You can start with buying the 800grit, 1000grit, 1200grit and 2000grit. It should be available at most hardware shop.

For the dust, if you are planning to repaint it, I would suggest you to wetsand it lightly (sand under running water or wet sandpaper) with 800grit sandpaper to level out the dust, then apply a layer of paint just to cover the area that is removed and then clear coat it.

If you did not plan to repaint it, just wetsand using 1000grit to level it out and apply clear.

Hope this helps. :) that is what I usually do with the dust problem.

Alternative to using a compressor is to use air cans. Inconvenience is that an air can will deplete after a few sessions and needs to be replaced every so often which could in the long run be more expensive than having a dedicated compressor.

thanks for everyone's advice. after hearing you guys' suggestion, i would start saving money to buy an airbrush with compressor..

i'm painting my car using spray can since i started out this hobby (since i never know that airbrush is actually better), and from my cars i could see that my painting skill using spray can is improving slowly..but it's not good enough..what do you guys think about my car's paint work result? it might not be good.. ;) and i didn't use any clear coats of my projects..which might make my cars look like toy cars..

yes, i'm gonna repaint it 'coz it's just the first coat..so will try to wet sand it with 800grit first to remove the dusty stuff..

thanks everyone..i'm still a beginner in this hobby..still have so many techniques to learn from you guys! i'm ready to learn..thanks!

oh ya..as for the panel lines detailing..mind to show me which type and which brand of the marker you guys using? i bought a technical drawing pen 0.1 fine point from a stationary shop, but the ink can be easily whipped out..mind to show me a picture of the marker you guys using?

i'm the only scale modeller in my family..my cousin and my brother..they are collecting die-cast 1/400 passenger planes and 1/43 mercedes-benz only..tried many times to introduce them into plastic scale modelling..but failed.. <_<

Well UnknownUser... At first i also like you buy technical pen for panel lines but once u 'draw' them make sure u don't polish/wax ur kit.. :lol:

The cheapest method by using either TMY or Gunze black and apply them using fine brush. I using TMY Acrylic Black (20%) and dilute it with water (80%)..make sure the paint is acrylic/water base.

..or u can use Gundam Marker


# -above pic is for reference only