Hello all

Here's a WIP on DML's Aufklarungspanzer 38t mit 2cm Kw.k.38 smartkit - (what a mouthful ^_^).

Start with the interior and suspension assemblies. Fit so far has been snug and tight. Some areas doesn't even require cement.


Painting the interior which went on with a preshade of black-brown mix, overcoat with off-white and post shade with brown+smoke and a highlight of white.


After applying filters and an oil wash after which another light spray of off-white goes onto the high spots and also misted on the walls in a controlled manner.


Painted seat.


To be continued...

C&C welcome

cheers

If you ask Beach, he knows how much I dislike doing interior painting. That's the reason why my 251s are not rolling at all.

I must say the seats sure break the overall white paintwork. In the future, you may want to add some foot scuffing marks on the floor esp in front of the seats. And perhaps some paint wear on the high wear and tear areas. You may need to decide how much hipping to do as I don't how much interior you can see later. Hey! No fire extinguisher kah?

A good start. Hope to see more of it soon.

P/S: What's it the brown patch on the top of the left seat support?

the weathering is minimal but nicely done (no need to go overboard if so little will be seen)... lovely :)

are u going to do the engine next?

Cheers guys.

Scuff marks, scratches etc. are the next step. Been a little bit too busy and haven't had the time to add these yet. ^_^

Don't recall seeing a fire extinguisher in the instructions :huh:

The brown patch is overpaint and will be touched up later.

I've not decided how much work to put on the engine as most of it can't be seen once closed up.

the engines is the part you can see plenty of....the germans would usually leave the service hatches open to cool off the engine....close during combat or while on the move.

Thanks Ari. Will keep that in mind.

cheers

Continue with the interior...









That's all for now until the next episode :)

C&C welcome

cheers

ahhhh.....
that's more like it!

it looks even better and better... what did u use? pastel sticks or tamiya powder?

nicely done bos.....compare this and the stug iv you made, you have improved alot. and if you keep on improving like this, i might have to close shop... :D

Thanks guys.

mojimbo, I used MiG pigments. First time using it.

Ari, experienced & knowledgeable modellers are a rare breed so don't even think about closing shop ^_^

cheers

:huh: coollll..keep it going PB

Nice interior, details painting everywhere! ;)

Thanks for the kind words & encouragement, gentlemen :)

cheers

Thats really nice work bro...Looks like the real thing shrunk down!

Could you tell me how you did the scratches?

Like I would say...if you give a bear honey, he'll go beserk :lol: :lol:

Way to go Pooh. Very well done!!

Now with added honey your progress is startling. It's good you're trying and experimenting. Never ever expect a complete masterpiece on your first go and that's the fun of this hobby as you learn and progress.

We can explain how to's until the cows come in...it'll never take the place of trying it out yourself and discovering a technic on your own.

Keep it up...sad it's going to be covered though.

Richard.

The various scratches were painted on with a fine brush.

I used dark sea grey for lighter scratches and german grey for the more heavy ones. I touched up some of the german grey with a bit of off-white along the lower edges of the scratch just to highlight and add a hint of dimension.

Floor plate received some humbrol polished steel and got brush painted over with some off white & sandy earth tones and finished with sand & dust pigments.

cheers

Cheers Richard :)

Yup, the learning never stops and it's just as fun sharing it with everyone else ^_^

This particular vehicle has option for open top so part of the interior can be observed. Just how much remains to be seen.

Continue with the construction & assembly...

In the left corner - the UKW.E.e & 10WS transmitter / receiver.


And in the opposite corner, some ammo cases.


A peek at the drivers front office.


A bit of brass PE that came with the kit.


And yet more PE! These came from LionRoar's german clamp set. Nice with texture and detail and workable to boot.


The tool box. The wonders of PE - the tiny clasps are actually workable.


Lastly, an overall of the lower hull.


To be continued...

Thanks for viewing.

C&C welcome.

cheers

Continuing with the works...

Heck of a lot of PE...


After priming, base coating, post shading and post highlighting. Initial priming and base coating not shown to save your viewing time. :)


Another angle.


View on the turret.


Wheels painted in.


More works to be done & to be continued..

C&C welcome.

cheers

Very nicely done Jason,

Keep it up. Hope your build will encourage more 38T chassied tank building amongst our members.

Lots of variants to choose from. BTW is the Italeri kit just as good. Iknow it's minus the PE.

Richard.

Looks gorgeous....on the way to be a gem.

This 38t and the Pzkfw 2 are my fav German tanks...small and cute shape :D Maybe its the big wheels....

Cheers guys.

Yes, would be nice to see more 38t variants built up.

Haven't worked on the Italeri version before. Surely an easier built than DML's?

Nice nice!

Ofcoz i would like to built one in future.

Jason,

If you need to beef up tank we have metal fabricated machine gun but more suited to enclosed tanks. Mini metal chain for the hoist.

Thanks Ahhow - very much look forward to your 38t!

@ Leong - Is the metal pre-machined? How do you cater for the different barrel sizes, and types i.e muzzle cones, barrel taper, rifling, etc.

cheers

Hi Poohbear,

Metal is machined ram rod straight. To enlarge barrel diameter slip in a coil spring that resembles barrel cooler/ recoil absorber or a Evergreen tube. Machine gun come in straight bore no tapering of muzzle unlike a cannon. If you are referring to the taper cone end of muzzle, just enlarge end with drill centre punch to flare end. Infact no need as 7.62 mm machine gun are straight barrel. No need bore riffling as gun barrel though see through will not be inspected internally

Comes with a sloted dome cover for machine gun elevation. Dome glue to tank makes enclose gun port.

Total length 4 cm, barrel 3 cm. Saw off if you need to shorten and flare end.
Price Rm 6.00 chromed.

Hi Poohbear,

Metal is machined ram rod straight. To enlarge barrel diameter slip in a coil spring that resembles barrel cooler/ recoil absorber or a Evergreen tube. Machine gun come in straight bore no tapering of muzzle unlike a cannon. If you are referring to the taper cone end of muzzle, just enlarge end with drill centre punch to flare end. Infact no need as 7.62 mm machine gun are straight barrel. No need bore riffling as gun barrel though see through will not be inspected internally

Comes with a sloted dome cover for machine gun elevation. Dome glue to tank makes enclose gun port.

Total length 4 cm, barrel 3 cm. Saw off if you need to shorten and flare end.
Price Rm 6.00 chromed.

PB,
nicely done on the fender kink, and the PE. Workable clamps looks convincing enough.

Tamiya still gives the best base coat dark yellow. Waiting for the next painting stage. Did you glue on the wheels and tracks BTW?

Ok, thanks Leong. Was just wondering because of the many different barrel type designs with different calibre.

Loo - yup the wheels & tracks were glued on before commencing with primer.

cheers

waah bos very fast...haha, btw i thought the dragon kit provided the PE clamps, im sure i saw the instruction sheet but i havent come to that part yet, or maybe the lion roar one is better, as i have them too

Quite a tad bit slow actually due to self procrastination ^_^

Yes, DML provided the tool clamps in box. If I'm not wrong its a pair (one spare) of 3pc workable clamps and the rest are wraparounds. Maybe just me but I couldn't get DML's 3pc clamp to not fall apart at the pivots and hence went with LR's which were much easier to assemble.

cheers

PoohBear, I can feel that you put a lot of efforts on the kit. I love the interior paints jobs. I have few questions.

1. How you make the sratches paints. and what tools u r using?

2. About the track, you paint the track first or the main hull first, what airbrush nizzle size u r using? Because I can see that the paint job is ver smooth.

3. Did you prime all ur tank before apply paint and final coat after paint jobs completed?

Thanks for you viewing and sharing. Keep it coming, I love the tanks very much, can not wait to see the final pictures.

From
LEE
Sabah

Cheers wuichong and welcome back after a long leave of absence :)

To answer your q's
1. The scratches are handpainted with a brush. I might use from 0 to 2 depending on how fine the scratches are going to be.

2. I base coated the hull and wheels in dark yellow first before proceeding to paint the tracks. The tracks were done with a 0.3mm airbrush after the base coat was applied. Track oversprays are kept to minimum with paper masks.

3. The whole assembly (including any subassemblies) was primed with Gunze surfacer before base coating with dark yellow. After base coating I will do a clear gloss coat for decal prep followed by a semi gloss / satin coat to seal the decal and in preparation of filter / washes & other weathering processes.

Hope that helps :)

cheers

Had to dig this up from the second page. That's what happens after two months of no updates due to working on other 'projects' :lol:

Anyway, on to the pics :)

So, here we are after applying filters and a wash.






The gunner seat & panel.


Chips & fish (minus the fish :))






Here's an overall of the wee bitty tank. Turret received only filter and wash.


More weathering steps to be done but that's for another episode which hopefully won't be in another 2 months :)

Thanks for viewing

Q,C&C welcome.

cheers

Dig the chips man.

Good stuff. Can't critisise here.

Richard.

super duper nice jason.... ;)
how u could handle it so neat with ur big fingers?....waduhhhhh.....superb ;) :D

Really good work on the scratches pooh, with brush somemore. How come I can never get my attempts to look so real? Bravo!!

how come i missed this one....

jason the bear, this is excellent build......

despite this slow connection i waited impatiently for the photos to show up..

the exhaust mufler is well done..cukup2 masak.. fish n chips (minus the fish) are all well done... using brush ehh?? what kinda of brush is that..

the wooden block metal bracket are magnificently fabricated and painted....

and the PE were amazing...how did u fold that...corners look sharp and even..

and i notice during early painting stage that the tracks are painted brown. At first i thought it was the modelkasten track but i was wrong..may i know what color or primer is that??

superb build bro... what else this bear cannot do ?? :D

Cheers guys :)

@rtfoe - much obliged, thanks.

@big D - big fingers? never noticed it. :lol: Having opposable thumbs helps I suppose. ^_^

@shah - don't let that get your chips down - you're doing very well thus far :)

@silantra - thanks for waiting for the pics to load and hope it was worth your while.

Brush used is just a standard typical #0 nylon brush.

PE was handled using Hold & Fold tool.

Tracks were DML's single link ones OOB. They were base painted with Tamiya red brown + Tamiya buff and given a dark oil wash.

Hmm...not sure yet what this bear can or cannot do. I'll let you know when the time comes ;)

thanks y'all