The Jagdpanzer iv has always been a special one for me...ah it was my first big scale armour back when everything was in Ho scale
well...i got the Jagdpanzer as a present from my dad for passing the standard 5 exams, way back in 1978..nope not tamiya , but Monogram 1/32scale jagd., ah this monogram kit in its origin box is worth alot of money today as i remember its was 9 ringgit, thats big money back in 78.


anyway this one is the dragon kit...the special addition one, i got 2 box, and im keeping the other one just in case it becomes a collectors item 20 years from now.
actually i intend to build this kit as one thats been hit with its roof blown apart, infact i have ordered the Pe and transmission set just for the purpose....and thats was 3 months ago, since they are not here yet, im building this without them as i couldnt wait coz the dateline to finish this kit is 4th december...yup contest day ;)


i build the suspension and track 1st



as work progress i found alot of mistake in this dragon kit, i was not happy with the smooth surface on the armour plates , so the need to reworked.. otherwise nothing serious thats couldnt be easily dealt with





the major mistake is the interlocking armour plate...they dont look right do they...so a rework is a must on this section



the roof is not welded on as presented in this kit...they are actually bolted down from the inside..yup they are removeable just in case they need to replace the gun.
so bolt mark is must on the roof....as i drill them with 0.1mm drill bit




the toy looking front fenders gone after reworked



6 days after start of work the PE set arrived...too late to use them , besides i wont have enough time even if i wanted to use it. the darn thing cost 210 thousand rupiah, man this dragon kit is only 200thousand rupiah :angry: phuiii
anyway this Lion roar set has more extras compared to Aber



work on the tranmission roof...note the new method of welding that i developed..its much finer and to scale





serial numbers bolted down on matlet..i used parts indication numbers from the sprunce











the rear interlocking plates was missing ..so a new one is scraped out

base coat black



steel coat



light green + black






light green +black +yellow +olive + light blue + white = lufwaffe field green


red brown + brown+khaki+ black







desert yellow + orange +white

Shading...round 1


im very please with the Anzen compressor...as now i could do shading that i never manage to do with my old set. truly Jambu...especially when working under 10psi
i always wanted to do overspray with minimal paint to give the camo colour tones various shade and the bleech effect..yup finally manage to do it

anyway there will 4 rounds of shading and this is the 1st

very nice Ari...about the camo..free hand air brushing ke ?

free hand bos...if use masking tape ...wa lau man..mati la, then masking kenot get the slight overspray effect.
btw the rear part camo with sharp contrast...ah this one pakai masking tape bos,
overall minus shading part...this jagd took 9 hours to spray

i started with the rear and engine deck..the jagdpanzer doesnt really have too much features as a tank apart from the engine deck...not wrong to say it looka like a square brick, so whatever hightlight must go to the engine deck and tools...get this right and the jagd will be a nice looking model





paint chiiping after , a wash and coat of clear



i did some extra work on painting the wooden part of the tools....wanted something that looks like natural wood....

Cantik Bro. lu mmg expert dalam bab "mengotor" dn "chipping"...
Rasanya, semua Air Compressor yg bertangki boleh "tembak" 10 psi. Regulator, air brush piece 0.2mm dn paint mixing yg penting... I punye sparmax "bertangki" boleh "tembak" 5 psi!

mej®

Very nice man Ari,

Especially the wooden handles and poles. They look just right and real. The greasy feel on the engine deck, phew!

I'm sure many will be asking about the shade of desert yellow you're using. Could be my monitor or you're going to weather it down. Looks very yellow or are there other shades of it you're going to add on. You could be right as I've seen some color plates in that shade but very weathered down and greasy with lots of rust streaks.

You're goin to do that right? Boy! can't wait.

Gonna grease up my Tiger too.

Richard.

5psi?..wa brader ..sakit jari klo gitu..hahahaha. ok i try see what kinda of effect boleh dapat. then at 5psi the cat pekat or cair?

the engine deck looks greasy coz belum kering bos...hahaha, later when dry already i will add rust and grease will only appear on selected spots using oil paint mix with varnish...then only the effect will be nice...some part matt , some part greasy.


ok..the yellow is the basic german panzer yellow...why so yellow is coz the yellow is not the base coat...late war german tanks are painted Pea Green from the factories or in very late stages of the war Luftwaffe field green as paints are very short in suppy , they grab what they can.
so this yellow will be sprayed on green base by the crews..thus more yellowish compared to yellow sprayed on base coat red primer.
the real effect will only be seen after washing when the yellow is toned down...as you could see the part on the back fender...that part has alreday been washed...and not so yellow ..rite

Ari, 5 psi guna paint "nipis" sikit dan AB boleh di rapatkan sikit kat subject... Dont wori, jari takan sakit... Cubalah

mej®

waa like this , then i want to try paint figures with it la....can ah bos?

kalau jari sakit, letak sponge kat trigger...huhuh

anyway ari, as usual ur chipping method was superb and magnificent....

This is cool! Ur painting with the tracks on...have always wanted to learn this trick..

Hopefully u can show us in detail when u deal with the tracks n tires on the roadwheels...

Thanks for sharing bro.... :D

ok boleh la...the track and wheels will be painted last...using oil paints, pastel chalk and rust pigments.,,,and some dry brush



but before that ...must finish the main hull..and since i dont really have enough time to do my usual paint chipping and weathering, i decide to use Chris Mrosko's method of weathering, which is much easier and fast.


these are the items used....pastel,oil paints and rust pigments from MK


heres how its done...the tank is first give a wash of black and burn sienna





while the wash is still wet..pin wash is given with a heavier mixture of black and burn sienna on selected features such nuts and bolts and corners



Chris Mrosko's methods stops here..while i add in rust pigments to dulipcate rust and must be applied while everything is still wet...once dry the rust will give a flakey look

bro ari...takkan tu je tip,