What kind of spray cans did you guys use?

TAMIYA spray cans or INDUSTRIAL SPRAY CANS like ANCHOR...

i am a poor guy so i am using anchor :lol:

BOSNI also works ok. so far tak makan plastic lagi..

and KRYLON also good but mahal sikit la

i have 3 cans of Tamiya Aircraft spray cans....

its just too expensive for my taste... so now i resort back to ANCHOR (RM5/cans) and Bosny...

so far so good...

since we discuss about paint.. just wondering... does the BLACK Anchor paint in GLOSS or just a FLAT BLACK?

and what's the different between Anchor RED & Anchor VERMILLION?

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as for plastics eating... hmm none yet... :)

kuman

Kuman, FYI, the Black Anchor paint is gloss and if you want flat black, Anchor does have flat black in their paint catalogue.

Red and Vermillion has a slight different if I'm not mistaken. The Red Anchor paint will come out well, red as in the Kilometrico ballpen colour (not the ink but the housing) and vermillion has a slightly brighter more to a reddish orange shade in it (correct me if I'm wrong with this).

All the paints will eat plastic or soften it if you put a very thick layer on the first run. It will not eat it as thinner eats plastic but it will definitely destroy the details in the parts. Just my two cents.

As for starters like me in early stage...studying i mean...industrial can spray is suitable for model kits as long as there are in Acrylic base.

Anchor and TOA brand is acrylic base as it won't really melt your plastic but remember always try it out on a plastic surface 1st and NOT your kit. Some industrial can sprays comes with Enamel base and this is a No No cos trust me it melts your kit...i've experience that oredi...

The only matters is that industrial can spray is not so fine as model paints so u need to 'sand' and do extra polishing. Moreover not so much choices of color.

Just be happy what you can afford for the time being ok..... B)

..I used a variety of industrial spray.. Anchor, Arrow, DPI , Bosny and Dove..They are all quite ok. The reason I used so many brands is because some of them doesn't have the colour I want.. :P I am lucky to say that till now, none of them are eating my models.

But sadly, most of them are glossy colours which are more suitable for shinny cars and bikes. Planes and gundams should have flat based colours to reflect more realism. At the moment, only expensive model spray paints have a huge choices of flat colours.

There's a short cut which is to spray your model with normal glossy colours and flat clear coat it at the end.. Personally haven't try it yet but its quite effective from what I read.

Cham I use those made in Thailand

RM 3.99 to 4.99

Brand is Sunliner and Crystal

cham...whatever brand also u can use as long as u like the colors and 'fits' ur car...and yes as mention by ryukick2088, is not suitable for Gundams and planes cos their colors is either matt or semigloss....

Most of the industrial can spray are between prices Rm4 to Rm6 unless is special color like Chrome,Gold or Florecents colors.

Enjoy your spraying guys.... :rolleyes:

yikes?
care to post some photos here?

i rather trust anchor :ph43r: the best of the cheapest :D

pecvo, but mostly gundam doesn't required painting right?

have use so many types of can spray already oh.. like Tamiya, Mr Hobby, Anchor, Arrow, ToA and mix with comm tinner...

Anchor and Toa also can use with tinner on you kits but only with AB..not on the kits directly. Of course you must get the paint out from the can first lah... ;)

No...wuichong... there are many type of gundam.. if for model kits.. its require paint for more detail. of couse the kits is already come with color if you don't mind can just glue it and display. there are also fix kits which already completed with the color, this things is really doesn't requere of painting...

;)

dont mind if i cut in?... actualy whether o not it require paints, we just trying to make it look as NON PLASTIC as possible... we try to make it real like painted metal with added wear effect... but that apply to someone who seek perfection lah... as for only those who consider it as a collection of things like me, i'll only paint it if i have time. and unpainted gundam still look presentable... for some better grade kits lah... some lower grade, realy doesnt look so well...

..Also, painting is definitely a requirement for those who do immitation gundam kit.. their finishing is very ugly .. :P

Well Cham...as for Gundam kits, it depends also on the scale you're having. Sone Gundam kits comes with non water slide decals and especially those fierce Gundam eyes...so normally we paint them.

As mention by koowilliams, we paint them so that they look as NON PLASTIC as possible...more realistic...Painting them also will cover all those 'snap' lines after covering with putty...Really can't comment much cos i'm not really into Gundam modelling.

It all depends on you how you present / display your kit... B)

i was actually so happy to find this thread..found out that a tamiya spray can cost about rm25 per can right?this rm5/bottle thing suits me well..then u guys mentioned that it is not suitable for planes etc...can a beginner like me get an exception? :P
izzit impossible to apply gloss to the whole aircraft armed with only a handbrush?

hmmm.. gloss coat.. if FUTURE can be considered as a gloss coat then i applied mine armed only with a handbrush...

if u opt to use the Gunze Gloss Coat.. then i guess abrushing is the only way..

as for spray cans.. i used to paint my acraft use only the Spray can ..industrial spray can with such brand as ANCHOR & BOSNY... at rm5/can.. ok la for beginners... but remember to wear respirator when spraying... :D

let the rest of the guys to comment also.. :D

kuman

erm.. juts wanna to ask..

does industrial spray can "clear" is gloss or flat finish eh??? Im running out of gunze flat coat right now and thinking of buying spray can clear paint to replace it.More cheaper option sebab dah tgh tgh bulan ni...hehe :lol:

musangpulut.


industrial spray can very gloss finish bro, :D



dremel

i went to a hardware shop jz now and saw this anchor and bosny brands..rm9.90..lacquer sumthing2 they wrote on the can..i can use that right?and about the gloss thing called FUTURE...can i get it at hardware shops?what izzit actually?how does it look like and how do i tell the shopkeeper what im looking for?

i already bought gunze gloss thing but got no airbrush..so illhae to keep that for the future i guess..or for the small detailed area.. :(

kuman..thanks for recommending the spray cans..saves me all the hair on my head.. :P

Future is an acryllic floor wax used to polish floors and comes in a clear bottle. Do a search on Google for 'future floor wax' and you'll be able to find pictures, references, description, uses etc. of it easily.

Future is not available at ordinary h/ware shops. You can find it in ACE Hardware at Ikano or Midvalley Megamall. There were lots of stock in Ikano about a month or so back. Not sure about now. Quite possibly the majority of buyers of this product are modellers instead of house wives. :P :lol:

It goes for over RM50+ per bottle. One bottle can last you for years...

thanks for the info..found out got an ace hardware near my house..thanks alot for the info..jz now i found an ANCHOR brand 'clear' color..can i use that as my gloss finish?i bought the white color one to spray my F-16 body..its ok right?

and do i need turpenthin/thinner/spirit?do people use those in modelling?i saw all at the hardware shop but dunno whats the difference.. :P

I've never used the Anchor spray bombs before but you should be okay with it.

For myself, I do use turpentine, thinner, spirits, alcohol when modelling.

Cheers :)

what are the uses of the thinne,spirits etc.?ive read sumwhere dat it eats into the plastic..scared to use it now..

btw,the anchor sprays i bought they wrote 'quick drying high build LACQUER'..sumone mentioned that the sprays needed to be acrylic base..did i buy the wrong spray?i noticed that they sell a 'clear' color as well..can i use that as my protective coat?

I have use the anchor brand and they are ok for model spraying as well. There's also the bosny brand that is acrylic based which is also working.

As for clear No.1, they are only good for glossy coat. Gundam or armour which goes for flat coat might not be applicable...

so no "flat clear coat" available in industrial spray can range eh?

whts the difference between flat coat and clear coat??

Clear coat can be split into few types namely Flat, Glossy and semi glossy...

Flat is those matt finishing for armour and gundams...
Glossy is those shinny surface for cars ...
Semi glossy is up to the modellers to use where he chooses...

oww..so planes still can use the gloss finsh right?btw ive started spraying today..anyone can give me sum tips?how many coats are needed?my plastic is white and my spray oso whit..so very dificult to see.. :(

Hi gloss is usually too shiny for aircraft and makes your model look toylike. Semi gloss should be just about right for 1/48 & 1/72 scale airplanes that has a gloss finish.

If your base is white and you have trouble spotting coverage, you might want to give it a light grey undercoat first.

cheers and happy modelling :)

oww ok..is semi gloss available in industrial spray cans?

btw..i sprayed a few thin layers of white yesterday..and while i was sanding and putty-ing last night..a lot of the paint chipped off..do i have to strip the earlier white paint off the whole plane?

Probably not. Then again, it depends on where the chipped paint is. If it's around the area where you did your sanding / puttying, you can probably do it the same way car repair shops do. Lightly sand the surrounding painted area so that the painted edges are smooth and even with the unpainted surface and spray over these area to blend in to the already painted surface.

cheers :)

if you used industrial spray can of couse paint will chip of,because its won't stick very well to the plastic.you should cover your model with gunze primer first . :)

don't spray too thick you will loss the detail of your aircraft.


dremel

Good topic

First of all my apologies to the gang for not able to participate in the recent NGB07. I was away and lots of work commitment. Because of that, my carriers are still in the drydocks.

Back to the subject:

Basic tip when you use any spray paint, regardless the expensive or cheapo, place the can in a bowl of warm water. Cover about 1 inch of the bottom of the can pun cukup. Leave it for about 3-4 min. Take it out, shake it well before you spray.

This will help to loosen up the paint particle in the can. Try it and see the different.

@PoohBear
thanks for the advice..will give me sumthing to do for the next few day.. :)

@dremel
actually i planned to 'clear coat' it right after spraying but found out later that i was doing the wrong steps..so didnt want to waste my gunze clear coat.. ;p

btw..my painting skill is so bad...feel like spraying everythin from now on until i can afford myself n airbrush..

in spraying theres no "how many coats" question right?

@judgedredd
yeap..soaked it alredi..read sumone mentioned it sumwhere..thanks for the advice neway.. :)

One question about CLEAR spraycan..?
Which brand clear spraycan will not turn yellowish on white color after long period..?
Now i try Nippon clear sprycan n spray it on gundam white base about 1 week ago..?so far so good loo...I try mr hobby super clear II sprayon my white car.After 2 days its turns little bit yellow..haiyoooo..what a messy laa..fenin my kepala..I try future,no yellowish but always ade habuk suke lekat.. <_<

The yellowing is caused by the lacquer reacting with UV rays from sunlight. If you want the clear coat to remain clear, store your finished model in a cool, dark place. As far as I know, there are no non yellowing lacquers for plastic model kit use. The guitar and furniture boys have a non yellowing acrylic based lacquer but I have not encountered it locally so far.

An alternative is CAB, which is cellulose actetate butyrate, but this resin base is *expensive*. It dries clear though, is very tough and will not yellow. Please note CAB is a "hot" solvent, and might not be very good for plastics. Would work on metals definitely, and perhaps resin, but I will not guarantee what it might do to your finished paintwork or weathering.

This thread is starting to sound like an organic chemistry class.

Bro, the best so far is still FUTURE. Make sure u keep the parts on a dust free container to let it dry. Letak dalam those transparent food plastic box pon boleh. The one we got for free when we tapau food back home.

As far as spray cans, once i got bad result trying to spray my canopy with Anchor brand clear spray. The canopy didnt get any clearer but foggy. Ended up with a translucent canopy... huhuh

TQ for your advise sil n des...But for me use future to clear coat scale car is too hard to avoid habuk drpd melekat...some time future coat akan meleleh sementara nk kering...haduiiii...kene sanding lg...how to avoid that thing coz future fininsh is very cair just like water i think.. :(

Spray very thin coats and let it build up slowly. It will look "rough" and opaque at first, but as the layer thickens, it will turn glossy and clear.

As for the dust problem, make yourself a spraybooth using an old cardboard box with a small computer fan attached to it. Line the inside of the box with mahjong paper or plastic sheet or something. Use it outdoors and remember to wear a proper mask. Acrylic looks good on models, not so good coating the inside of your lungs.

spray can as in commercial spray can in malaysia is a wonderous product namely the cap matahari brand as well as the "mat motor" brand...i've been using commercial spray can for a good 20 years now and the results are somewhat based on black magic and kung fu ...but one thing i can tell is that the american brand "pylox" is the worse of them all ...i've seen many incident of "sputtering" even though i've shaken the can for a good 10 minutes ...and brand new to boot ...it always come out like spits all over the surface ..so avoid pylox...no matter what is your kung fu level is..

primer surfacer grey from cap matahari is a wonder weapon makes priming all the more easier and cheaper .

candy blu or candy red (candy ada tiga bintang asterix) works gorgeously on creating a transparent coat on most surfaces (car modellers should try out painting the model with silver/chrome and let it dry and then later paint with any candy based color ..looks wicked ...did this when i was doing my final 1/5 scale motorcycle project in Industrial Design)

recently, available are flat white which i like to sue now for surfacing my 1/6 scale weapons..cantik siot...

the acid content of the commercial spray paint is not quite high but it's good enough to paint on rubber ...(did this for some 1/6 scale boots )

clear ...sadly no flat clear available ...but you do get a very high gloss finish with the commercial ones..

cheers

I use pylox exclusively during my spray cans era. No probs whatsoever.The tip is make sure you prime the model first with gunze primer.Highly recommend it!