Title: Pz1 Ausf B Review
Description: Dragon DAK kit
Loo CK - May 27, 2008 01:30 PM (GMT)
A kit review of Dragon's DAK Pz 1 Ausf B is
here
Silantra - May 28, 2008 01:34 AM (GMT)
Tauke Loo,
very comprehensive review. I thought u have the normaly Aus B version and not the DAK version.
When I scan the photos, i think more or less it's a bit the same with the smart kit in term of sprue arrangement and diffrerent parts to make an Aus B.
The normal Aus B didnt come with clear parts and PE as well.
The only different is maybe the magic tracks...
Thanks for the article Mr President
SAC33 - May 28, 2008 09:12 AM (GMT)
El Presidente ... mucho mucho nice review ... now can you show us your progress build ... :D :D
SAC33
Loo CK - May 29, 2008 07:41 AM (GMT)
SAC33,
your wish is my command!
Postinq will be done tonite if all goes well. At the moment, only the tracks and some hull attachement left to do.
Silantra - May 29, 2008 09:25 AM (GMT)
great lords...
now we can do this build together.... my panzer I is almost ready for painting
DIGGER - August 10, 2008 03:22 PM (GMT)
CK,
I notice the 2 marking options for the Pz1 are of different base colours. I copied the markings diagram photo but can't make out the Gunze paint code even after zooming the picture. Appreciate if you can let me know the colours for both markings.
Thanks,
Digger
Loo CK - August 13, 2008 12:03 PM (GMT)
Digger,
sorry for the late reply.
The codes are:
Option 1 21 Pz Div
H66/19 RLM sandy Brown 79 Main Body
H12/33 Flat Black for Rubber parts of wheels
H18/28 Steel for tracks
H37/43 Wood Brown for tool handles
H76/61 Burnt Iron for exhaust cover
Option 2
5 PzDiv
H32/40 Field Grey (1) for Main Body
others as option1
Have fun
Loo
DIGGER - August 14, 2008 04:17 AM (GMT)
Thanks CK. Filed up the info for future camo schemes options.
Loo CK - September 14, 2008 02:07 PM (GMT)
In these totally ridiculous and frustrating times, I thought that I should go back to doing something that started me back on the road of modelling. At least this much is sane!
These are works in progress. A detailed write up will be posted soon describing the method used to get the weathering effect.
Enjoy. Criticisms are welcomed because I am still not happy with the overall effect.



ahhow - September 15, 2008 12:53 AM (GMT)
Very realistic chipping, salt method?
Loo CK - September 15, 2008 04:03 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE |
| Very realistic chipping, salt method? |
The chipping was done with hair styling gel and a sponge.
Silantra - September 15, 2008 05:38 AM (GMT)
tauke,
why are u still unhappy??? indeed this was outstanding!! the chipping looks real in the desert environment... and appropirate . only a small part were overdid for example in the glacis plate... err would you mind sharing your hair gel method...?? never heard of it before... before this your hair did wondeful effect in the POW... and now your hair products again,,,,huhuhuh
Loo CK - September 15, 2008 05:55 AM (GMT)
Boss,
wanted to save it for the article but since you asked.
The first step is to spray the base coat ( panzer grey ) and wait for it to dry and cure, preferably, overnight because the next few steps will be very abusive.
After that cut a small piece of sponge into an irregular shape and dip it lightly into hair gel. Doesn't really matter what brand. Wipe out the excess gel onto a piece of paper to control the amount on the sponge and then lightly dab onto the areas where you want the greys to show. Go slow and build up the speckles because you don't want to overdo it. I kept it on the edges and areas where abuse is likely to happen.
After that, it does't matter if the gel dries up or not. You can proceed to paint the top coat and also do the post shading works.
Once done, lightly mist the surfaces with water and it will start to dissolve the gel underneat. Use a stiff bristle brush and start to scratch the surface and the top coat over the gel will be displaced. Rinse the model to get rid of the flakes.
This method should work well with winter camo and if you are hardworking, you can even do a very abused tank with multi level treatment.
A rust-gel-basecoat-gel-top coat is a potential variation.
Try it out!
Silantra - September 15, 2008 06:04 AM (GMT)
thanks Tauke for the recipe of the day....
so the basecoat should be of acrylics or enamels or doesnt matter which type of paints??
and how about the top coat??
how many minutes/hours shall we wait for water rinsing???????
any particular type of sponge??
Once i tried a paint chipping method using sponge (but no har gel)..and i used sponge from make-ups artist (borrowed from my sister). the one that will harden when dry.... and it has a good texture (remember the T34??). i tried with regular household sponge (span basuh pinggan) but didnt like it..too soft...
ehh why dont u organise a workshop on this.... this method looks cool la!!
druid_99 - September 15, 2008 06:17 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE (Silantra @ Sep 15 2008, 02:04 PM) |
any particular type of sponge?? Once i tried a paint chipping method using sponge (but no har gel)..and i used sponge from make-ups artist (borrowed from my sister). the one that will harden when dry.... and it has a good texture (remember the T34??). i tried with regular household sponge (span basuh pinggan) but didnt like it..too soft... |
I think you can try and use Spongebob lah Zaidi... :lol: Sorry, can't resist it... too much sponge in one day... :lol: :lol: :lol:
Tauke Loo, the chipping really looks good but the jerry can and the racks are too clean lah... :)
kay - September 15, 2008 06:30 AM (GMT)
wahhhh CK...my hands getting itchy to try out this method on my Stug...must be adventurous & do a winter camo scheme...
by the way is this method more suited for AFV ? what about planes ..say in 1/48 scale ?
Silantra - September 15, 2008 06:35 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE (druid_99 @ Sep 15 2008, 02:17 PM) |
| QUOTE (Silantra @ Sep 15 2008, 02:04 PM) | any particular type of sponge?? Once i tried a paint chipping method using sponge (but no har gel)..and i used sponge from make-ups artist (borrowed from my sister). the one that will harden when dry.... and it has a good texture (remember the T34??). i tried with regular household sponge (span basuh pinggan) but didnt like it..too soft... |
I think you can try and use Spongebob lah Zaidi... :lol: Sorry, can't resist it... too much sponge in one day... :lol: :lol: :lol:
Tauke Loo, the chipping really looks good but the jerry can and the racks are too clean lah... :)
|
The texture of Spongebob look suitable for the job..................
PoohBear - September 15, 2008 07:01 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE (druid_99 @ Sep 15 2008, 02:17 PM) |
| Tauke Loo, the chipping really looks good but the jerry can and the racks are too clean lah... :) |
What you see is still WIP. Knowing Tauke Loo, we can look forward to sweetly weathered jerry cans and more. :lol:
rtfoe - September 15, 2008 10:50 AM (GMT)
Hi Loo,
Great idea using the hair gel. I used KY instead thinking it was safer. Now I won't get have to be ambarrased buying the stuff.
I think I mentioned this during the last airbrush session as one of the possible masks and got some ribbing :lol: :lol:
The salt method is a bit more difficult as we don't have very fine salt and the chips turn out quite large.
Good stuff, I'm sure the cantins will be weathered in due course.
Richard.
Loo CK - September 15, 2008 11:12 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE |
so the basecoat should be of acrylics or enamels or doesnt matter which type of paints?? and how about the top coat?? how many minutes/hours shall we wait for water rinsing???????
any particular type of sponge?? Once i tried a paint chipping method using sponge (but no har gel)..and i used sponge from make-ups artist (borrowed from my sister). the one that will harden when dry.... and it has a good texture (remember the T34??). i tried with regular household sponge (span basuh pinggan) but didnt like it..too soft... |
Sil,
doesn't matter what paint you use for the base coat as the silicon based gel will not noticably affect it. The top coat is Tamiya acrylics. Gunze is fine too as long as its not too thick a coat. I stripped the top coat after 5 mins and once the speckles are fine and seen and relatively enough, you can rinse the excess paint off.
Sponge: the normal dish washing sponge is OK. The trick is to wipe the excess away and softly dab the gel on, controlling the dot sizes.
Hope that helps.
As for the jerry cans, they have not been weathered yet.
Cheers and thanks for the comments
Loo
ps kay: Planes should be ok too for the oil spill effect or retouched up paint effect. You just have to do a slightly different tone at the panel lines and it will come out nice too.
moJimbo - September 15, 2008 01:51 PM (GMT)
the 'hair gel' chipping effect, i might try that one day... thanks for the explanation master loo :)
PoohBear - September 15, 2008 11:37 PM (GMT)
| QUOTE (rtfoe @ Sep 15 2008, 06:50 PM) |
Hi Loo,
Great idea using the hair gel. I used KY instead thinking it was safer. Now I won't get have to be ambarrased buying the stuff.
I think I mentioned this during the last airbrush session as one of the possible masks and got some ribbing :lol: :lol:
8< |
KY & Ribbing. Way too funny. :lol:
ahhow - September 16, 2008 12:39 AM (GMT)
Hairspray method, heard this long time ago. i don't think i can use it with handbrush :D
Loo CK - September 16, 2008 01:24 AM (GMT)
ahhow,
with hairgel, you can. Just let the hairgel dry before you hand paint and then strip the paint as described.
ahhow - September 16, 2008 03:37 AM (GMT)
| QUOTE (Loo CK @ Sep 16 2008, 09:24 AM) |
ahhow, with hairgel, you can. Just let the hairgel dry before you hand paint and then strip the paint as described. |
Sure? :o
I'll try that, thanks a lot!
Silantra - September 16, 2008 06:40 AM (GMT)
while searching for ma kind of minyak rambut, i found this

i think this one has been reboxed and reformulate to ensure its comform to this method.. hahaha :)
err regular Brylcreem will work also kan tauke??
Loo CK - September 16, 2008 09:50 AM (GMT)
Loo CK - September 17, 2008 12:31 AM (GMT)
and this is the last update before I compile the full build log in the MalaysiaScaleModelling.com website.
It was fun except for a few niggly comments like the lack of the tow cable, but overall highly reccommended.





The flag was made with facial tissue by separating the twin ply and airbrushing the markings with a layer of white at the flip side. It was then futured and placed wet on the tank. Folds were pinched with tweezers and everything was then set in white glue. Highlights, shadows with Vallejo and pigment completed the effect.
Will not be available to answer any queries until the night as I will be on site the whole day.
Cheers.
Silantra - September 17, 2008 12:39 AM (GMT)
Tauke Loo,
Outstanding SBS with photos too.. thanks tauke.. you're the man...
So the sponge is heavy duty 3M or 3M lookalike :)..
I used to that type of gel but then change to the non-grease type hair gel... probably afterthis this gel will become hot like future...
one thing bout the air recognition flag, i was so surprise that u airbrush the tissue. Tak koyak ke??
Anyway, overall this cute little tank is not cute anymore. Look menacing and worn..
Good job as usual Master Loo....
ahhow - September 17, 2008 01:21 AM (GMT)
One of the best tank in this forum this year, salute!
Loo CK - September 17, 2008 12:00 PM (GMT)
Thanks Sil and ahhow,
This kit was really great to build and not much problems. Actually there are a few highlights like the clear parts for the periscope and lamps, photoetched parts and the indy tracks which are really good when you see it up close.
Looks like this might be my last tank for the year as it is time to move on to the carrier dio in support of the naval Aviation group campaign and also to plan for SMM....
cheers,
Loo