I got these guys from a fellow painter who's offloading his 1/35s. The Fallschirmjager wears Archer tranfers on the helmet.



The MP40 sling for this one is scratchbuilt



A small SS death's head decal from Archer is added to this fella's 'schiffchen'



I replaced the head of this figure with a bandaged one. Also a Verlinden part.




Cheers
Patrick

Patrick,
as usual, first rate work. the camo uniform is especially good.
Even the bandaged head feels really damaged with the subtle ooze of plasma seeping thru.

Seeing the photos, it's hard to believe that they're 1/35. Amazing work!

Kudos.

Nice one Patrick.

Looking at the picture I taught it should be at least no smaller than 1/16th scale. I will be very happy even if I can paint my 1/35th figures half as good as yours... :)

P/S: You must have a very big and powerful magnifying glass is it? :D

Thanks. Would you believe it that I eat lots of carrots?

Thanks Xamel and Loo,

Practise, practise and more practise. There's always one or more figures on my workbench at any given time. Doing them daily allows me to raise the bar and push the limits with new tryouts and techniques, some subtle which might go unoticed at a glance. I've experimented with the 'acrylic method' ie layering etc and now combine this with oils. Dry brushing, frowned upon by some painters nowadays is still employed but only as and when required and only on certain areas. No fixed method. Picked up speed too. I'm still not satisfied though........

Cheers
Patrick

Really??? Wah, got to stock carrots now instead of model kits and paints... :lol: :lol: :lol:

By the way, one question, what type/brand of brush did you use to paint the figures and camo?

Very high quality work as always Patrick and I do notice some subtle changes. The camo work is excellent. I like the wounded figgie the best as his facial expressions is very well rendered. On a very, very minor nitpick and not significant is the placement of the eagle emblem on the Fallschirmjager's helmet. I might be wrong but in most pics I've come across its located on the left side of the helmet. As mentioned nothing major.

Thanks for sharing these beauties with us.

Carrots, vitamins and lots of practise training my eyes oggling the fairer sex........ :lol:

Brushes........nothing but the best I can find. Red sable which cost just under RM10 a pop. They wear out fast if overused....say after about 5 or 6 figures! I now have a lot of brush handles......... :blink:

Patrick

Dang! I hate it when I'm stumped! I just checked my book. You are right about the decal. Funny thing is I did look up my research material beofre applying it yet I went and did a fool thing like that! Can I pass it off as mirror image-ah ?

Patrick

Great stuff Patrick,

Been following your post on figures and picking up tips especially the camo for german figs to cross reference with my own figs.

Keep it up...the painting that is. :P

Richard.

Thanks and all the best in your figure work.

Patrick

Man, I am jealous. I cant even paint the German camo right, let alone faces, and you've successfully done both. No fair =] Well done my friend.

Thanks man. I've almost forgotten about these guys which were posted soooo long ago. I'm surprised they are still being viewed. There are face painting tutorials posted in this forum and others. Some good tips to get started.

Cheers
Patrick

I'm always very impressed by your works.

The tutorials didn't explain on using Oil paints. Is there any difference in terms of techniques comparing to oil paints?

Oil paints are expensive and the last time I tried, I couldn't get any "thinners" for the oil paint. Tried some industrial turpentine but doesn't work, so I didn't put in the investment.

Thanks flyguy. The use of oils and acrylics is almost similar but there is a slight difference. For fleshtones I'd recommend starting with oils first and then graduating to acrylics. Oils are more forgiving should you make a mistake. Just watch out that you don't let your whites and blacks come near each other as you're going to get grey. Still can repair though but a @#%!! waste of time.

On the contrary oil paints can be cheaper than acrylics. China made Windsor & Newton about the size slightly larger than a small toothpaste tube cost around RM7 or RM8 and this can last a lifetime. All the tubes I bought 5 years ago still might have another 5 to go at least. Use distilled turpentine for cleaning the brush. Oils need thinning only with special cases but most times you can use straight from the tube. The turps should be available at the same place you bought the oil tubes.

Rots of ruck
Patrick

Thanks for the tips.

I'm surprise to find out from you to start with oils and end up with acrylics. The reason I wanna try oil paints is because they dry much much slower and hence I can blend fleshtones to look more realistic.

I'll try if i can get some budget for oil paints. Normally for flesh tones like the one shown in your work, how many colors do you need?

I went to an artist shop in uptown and ask for something to thin the oil paints, they just stare at me wondering what the hell am i talking about.

I'd like to keep the conversation back to the topic, but your amazing work is just too inspiring. :D

Thanks

A combination of some or all of the following:
shades of brown, red, blue, black, white and flesh ( optional if you have yellow ). I can't say exactly how to combine them. And I don't use them straight from the tube. I mix them and if it looks right just go with the flow. I have no fixed method and each figure's face is done differently. I stress again, don't allow your black and whites to get blended together.