It's time for me to continue my pending after the F-14 Retirement Party.
Status,
1. Tyre to be trimmed,
2. clear coat on body and rims.
3. Mesh on front bumper




Front bumper lowered


Side skirt are made from plastic sheet


Rear wing lifted to simulate the one in NSX R

Coments from ya'll car sifu are welcome, schedule to complete by this month.

the skirt looks convincing.. i thought it comes from the kit... looking forward to a finish car...

The skirt's plastic plate are from Time Cel Open/Closed sign that people hang in front of shop, it's easy to trim and cut.

wow ground scraping ride height
i love it
also the body kiy midification loos real sweet
nice car man
i also plan to do one like this but cannot find the car anywhere :angry:

Hi Bomber Vince...Firstly, is this a rebuld/redo kit? Cos i notice there's the 'H' logo decal been place... <_<

'Steel' color for this NSX body looks cool and if 'clear' coated it with a little polish that will be superb...Which 'steel' color u use? BTW, is this a FUJ kit? What you intend to do here is a really nice mod. May i suggest 1 thing; since you r having NSX Type R Rear Wing why not mod the bonet also to Type R style? Looks more cool!

I'm building a FUJ NSX also and i will post them once done. mine is normal type with a bit of mods only not Type R also... ;)

Looking forward to your finish NSX... :)

thanks for ur suggestion, it's a Tamiya kit but not a redo one, just placing the decal after the metalic paint, the color that used was from an industrail spray can for car (Honda Metalic Gold). I would like to do that but don't think I have the knowledge and skill to do that, maybe U can tunjuk ajar....

Lookin forward to c ur post, works from car sifu like u will sure help. :rolleyes:

PC Evo,

something off topic, I have an RX-7 that have cracked paint any suggestion?

Hi BomberVince....1st of all...Don't call me 'sifu' la...i'm still climbing up the 'mountain' to reach there...The Cars sifu's here are both Kenneth and druid_99 whom i known of. i only able to give comments and suggestion is mainly because of my experience on Try and Error on the kits i've build. Please do remember that every modeler has their own method of doing and is all up to you on how to build ur kit... ;)

Ok..back to your Q's.....crack paint...is the paint that is crack from an industrial can spray? ...cos it mostly happens to industrial can sprays in period of time. From what i know is that the crack is mainly due to the thickness of the paint...Is not adviseable to repair or putty it. The best thing is scrap it and re-spray it. MayB other forumers have any good suggestion on this.... :)

First of all PcEvo, I'm not sifu lah... I'm just the average modeler who is a bit more enthusiastic in building cars than other models.

Bomber Vince, as for the NSX, I think a few layers of clear coat and a few times of polishing will make the car looks superb. I like the looks of the car with the Type-R rear spoiler.

One suggestion though. Looking from the side view of the car, the front and side skirting looks good but it does not look balanced because there is no rear skirting. Adding a few mm's of rear skirting will surely improve the overall look. Adding a diffuser will also enhance the rear look of the car.

Are the rims will be black like in the picture or are you going to paint it? If you are painting it, I would suggest white or flat alluminium to contrast the dark colour of the car.

One fatal mistake I realise there.... Where are the tires!??? You don't suppose the car will move only with rims do you??? Hahaha... just pulling your legs lah Bomber Vince... :lol:

Thanks for your ideas guys, I like the rx-7 very much, one day I'll sure repair it.
As for the tyres, I'm actually trimmong it down, from 225 55 R16 to 225 40 R18

I forgot to answer the paint cracking problem lah...

Ok, Bomber Vince, there are a few reasons that I can think of that can cause the paint to crack but the usual reason is because the paint is applied too thick before it has the time to fully dry.

Usually this type of crack will not only happen on the surface but it will go right through until the plastic, meaning that there are no other way to repair this except for dipping the car into brake oil bath to remove the paint.

During painting, especially using spray cans, you need to spray one mist layer at a time and let it dry thoroughly or in other terms, to let the paint to "gas out". Usually the paint is left to dry about 10 to 20 minutes between mist coats (maybe less or more depending on the type of paint) so that the paint is thoroughly dry before applying a wet coat. For wet coats, you need to let the paint to dry and "gas out" from a few hours to a few days (I myself gives about 3 days to be sure though, that's why my build is always slow :lol:) and only after that the car is ready to be rubbed and polished.

Hope this helps. ;)

Ha ha ha... my RX-7 in gettin a bath soon... thanks druid.

Remember to try and remove all clear parts before you dip the car into brake oil bath though. I forgot to remind you that.

THanX dude... first time strippin paint, usually cloths only... ha ha ha... :lol:

Here's the tyre, rims will be painted black chrome (not painted yet)




will proceed to engine detailing and body finishing after spraying the rims.

Need Help Guys....

The paint for my rims are too thick, so I planned to strip it with brake fluid but it dosen't work with chrome paint.

anyone have spare wheels???
I'll buy or swap, I have a couple sets of tyre and rims but don't really fit.

Hi Bomber Vince.....Glad to meet you today at CineLeisure Bazaar and sorry didn't got a chance to talk much with you... ;)

Ok...regarding about the wheels...emm...as for TMY wheels i really don't have any but FUJ yes....As you know that TMY doesn't comes with upgrade wheels parts like FUJ and FUJ wheels is totally differ from TMY wheels. So they can't really fix to each other kit without modifying them...I will c c look look and let u know on the TMY wheels ok... :)

Peter, thanks, nice to meet u too, u really have a huge batman collection

Thanx Bomber Vince...There will be more to come on my Batman collection. Check out my Bats thread if u free.... ;)

So as for your 'NSX' wheels, do let me know if u r interested in FUJ as i might had a few. I can take some pics for u to c c look look if u want. Do remember that u need to modify them to fit to TMY okie? ;)

PC EVO, thanks for ur offer...


Finally, rims paint are fully stripped off...after 8 days of break fluid bath and hard brushing+scratching.
Can anyone suggest what's the best rim color to suit this car?


Sneak peep of the engine.


Final work, a good clear coat that shines. Will try all the methods that I learned from this forum.

BTY, what's the best clear coat for cars? Most of the time I'm using industrail spray cans.

Hi Bomber Vince...glad to hear that u r able to clean ur wheels. As for the wheels color...my choice is either black, white or titanium gold.

The V-TEC engine looks cool...is nice to display it rather than covering it even though is not practical...i would display it like this also on my upcoming NSX. Sorry i delay my NSX pics as the progress has halted due to some issue...Laetr i will share them ok.

I notice there's black orange peel on the roof/hard top. u should get rid of them by polishing or compounding them before applying top 'clear' coat. After clear coating then polish again...this is what i do normally. :)

I use TMY clear coat (can sprays) for my cars... ;)

Glad you finally able to remove the paint on the rims Bomber Vince. As for the colour of the rims, I agree with PcEvo's choices but add one more... Titanium silver.

As for the orenge peel on the roof, you can easily remove it by lightly wetsanding it using 2000grit sandpaper, compund it and polish it to get back the shine.

As for the choice of clear coats, industrial paints is what I always use. B)

PC EVO, Druid,

How's the titanium type of metalic colors look like? isit like the one kenneth used in his ferrari? Where to get those souce of paint? Gunze?

I'll try my best to build a car without orange peel, thanks for ur tips guys.

Hi Bomber Vince...

TMY have the both Titanium Colors; either in Arcylic or Enamel, small and big bottle...No can spray... ;)

Thanks, but will go HHQ this sat, dunno that they have those paints...

guys, found that I've actually abandoned this kit for bout 1.5 years, I thought a few months only....

Ok, I'll try my best to shine this car up, that's the final part of work.

my last clear coat are sprayed using industrail spraycan and it's too thick and some parts even damaged, with tiny bubbles

The black areas need some re-paint.

I've wet-sanded the body with 1200 and 2000 sandpaper, then spray some clear coat on.

Clear coated, sand with 2000 sandpaper then polish with tamiya compound.
not a good shine yet...but it's the shiniest car I ever build.. (my low low auto skill) :(


Effect of overspray


I'm too "kan cheong"




The black areas are touched up.

Picture 3 is why I didn't clear coat straight from the can. It is quite difficult to control and if there are bubbles present, you need to let it thoroughly dry before you can sand it back and reapply again.

I've learned this the hard way a year ago, this time I use airbrush. he he he....

Airbrush? :blink: How come it ends up like that? I never got that type of problem using airbrush.

the problem come out when I use spraycan last time, I've sanded smooth and air brushed a coat of clear but doesen't work, so I need to spray another layer of black.

I have never come across such problem before even using spray can. I mean proper modeling spray can like tamiya. Maybe it is due to the mixture of sovent in the spray can or the can was not well ahaken or maybe defact spray can. I too experience some fustration in building cars but it is a real good lesson to learn as it will help make us build better cars the next time round. Keep building bro! don't give up on cars. ;)

I think the problem comes from your previous use of industrial clea coat straight from the can. Too much clear will result in bubbling under the clear coat and this bubble usually reacts to the plastic which will left unever surfaces on the part sprayed.

The only thing that you can do is to sand it as smooth as you can apply thin layer of putty to cover up any bubble marks that might still be there, sand smooth and reprime or repaint again.

I once got a model kit that a guy painted by himself using industrial spraycan with thick paints and bubbles everywhere. He wanted me to repair it for him in a few days and I just give up... <_<

Car roof is repaired and sprayed with gunze super black, then polish with tamiya compound then fine compound.


I've decided to change the rims, I used rims frm my "Chop-shop" it's frm the Penzoil R-34. Bit too wide for the tires so I trimmed it.


Mesh frm one of my 1/35AFV

I've changed the rims again, Think this one looks better...


I've repainted the dashboard to black...


I like this shot...


This is the most shiny car that I've ever build (still below standard), Thanks to all my sifus here such as Imran and Kenneth.

There's another problem, The head lamps for this car faced the crackin problem... and I have no more extra paint... damn....

any suggestions?

I think you could smoke the lens. I like the body color. Which color is it?

1 question...how do you avoid getting fingerprints on the shiny body ? Do you wear gloves? I cant build shiny cars.Fingerprints will sure be all over it!

sllim

Eric,

This is still a NSX, not the NSX-R, I just modified it so it looks better. so there's no light lenses, just the normal jump-light.

Is it ok to paint them carbon fiber color?

Lim,

I dun really understand ur questions. do you mean finger prints when u handle the car during spray time?

Eric,

The color is "honda gold", and Anchor industrial spray can color, I can't find it any where now.

I see. The jump light you were referring to is the ones that pops out of the body, is it? In that case, CF would look good. But you need the other's decision as well.